Leather shoes are made to be worn, so a few marks along the way are inevitable. The good news is that keeping them clean doesn't need to be complicated.
For most smooth leather shoes, start by brushing away loose dirt before gently cleaning the surface with a suitable leather cleaner and soft cloth. Once they're clean, leave them to dry naturally before conditioning or polishing if needed.
Different leather finishes need different care, though, so before you get started, check what type of leather you're working with. Suede, nubuck and patent leather shouldn't automatically be cleaned in the same way as smooth leather.
Here's how to clean leather shoes at home, step by step.
What you'll need to clean leather shoes
For most smooth leather shoes, you'll need:
- A soft shoe brush
- Two clean, soft cloths
- A leather cleaner suitable for your shoes
- Leather conditioner, if appropriate
- Shoe polish, if you'd like to restore colour or shine
Always check the instructions on your shoes and chosen care product before getting started. It's also worth testing any new product on a small, less visible area first.
And one important thing before we begin: don't put leather shoes in the washing machine. Too much water, heat and movement can damage the leather and affect the shape and construction of the shoe.
How to clean leather shoes at home
1. Check the type of leather
Before reaching for a cloth, check what your shoes are made from.
The method below is intended for smooth or finished leather. Suede and nubuck need a different approach, while patent leather generally needs much lighter surface cleaning.
Not sure whether your shoes are suede? Our guide to cleaning suede shoes takes you through it separately.
2. Remove the laces
If your shoes have laces, take them out before cleaning.
This makes it much easier to reach around the tongue, eyelets and other areas where dirt tends to collect.
If the laces need cleaning too, check their care instructions and wash them separately.
3. Brush away loose dirt
Use a soft brush to gently remove any dried mud, dust and loose dirt from the surface of the shoes.
Pay particular attention to seams, around the sole and anywhere dirt has built up.
Doing this before introducing any moisture helps stop you from rubbing surface dirt further into the leather.
4. Clean the leather
Apply a small amount of suitable leather cleaner to a clean cloth, following the instructions for the product you're using.
Gently work across the surface of the shoe, paying a little more attention to visible marks and areas where dirt has collected.
Leather doesn't need to be soaked to get it clean. Use products sparingly and avoid saturating the material with water.
If a stubborn mark doesn't lift easily, don't keep scrubbing or applying more pressure. You could damage the finish. Instead, check the guidance for your particular type of leather or seek specialist advice for more difficult stains.
5. Wipe away any excess cleaner
Once you're happy with the clean, use a second soft cloth to remove any excess product or residue.
Again, keep moisture to a minimum. The aim is to leave the leather clean, not wet.
6. Leave your shoes to dry naturally
Give your shoes plenty of time to air dry before applying any conditioner, polish or protective product.
Keep them away from radiators, hairdryers and other direct sources of heat, which can dry the leather too quickly and potentially affect its appearance or condition.
If the shoes have become particularly damp, allowing them to dry fully may take longer than you expect. Don't rush it.
7. Condition or polish if needed
Cleaning, conditioning and polishing aren't the same thing, and your shoes won't necessarily need all three every time.
Leather cleaner removes dirt and surface marks.
Leather conditioner helps care for appropriate types of leather and keep the material feeling supple.
Shoe polish is used on suitable smooth leather to restore colour, improve the finish and bring back shine.
Always choose products designed for your particular type and colour of leather, and follow their individual instructions.
If it's shine you're after, take a look at our guide to polishing leather shoes for a full step-by-step.
Does the cleaning method change for different types of leather?
Yes. "Leather" covers a number of different finishes, and treating them all in exactly the same way can do more harm than good.
Smooth leather
For most smooth or finished leather shoes, the cleaning method above is a good place to start.
Remove loose dirt first, clean gently using a suitable leather product and allow the shoes to dry naturally before deciding whether they need conditioning or polishing.
Patent leather
Patent leather has a distinctive glossy surface, so it doesn't need the same treatment as standard smooth leather.
For everyday marks, gentle surface cleaning with a soft cloth may be enough. Avoid abrasive brushes and products that aren't specifically suitable for patent leather, as these could affect the glossy finish.
Suede and nubuck
Put the damp cloth down.
Suede and nubuck have a textured surface and need their own cleaning method and suitable products. Using standard leather creams, conditioners or cleaning methods can change their appearance.
Read our complete guide to cleaning suede shoes before getting started.
White leather
White leather can make dirt, scuffs and marks much more noticeable, but the same rule applies: start gently and use products suitable for the material.
Avoid reaching straight for harsh household cleaners in an attempt to brighten the surface. Our [guide to cleaning white shoes] has more advice for dealing with white footwear safely.
How often should you clean leather shoes?
There's no need to give your leather shoes a full clean after every wear.
How often they need cleaning depends on how regularly you wear them, the conditions they're worn in and how quickly dirt builds up.
A quick brush or wipe when you notice surface dirt can help stop grime from building up. Save a more thorough clean for when the shoes actually need one.
If they've been caught in wet or muddy weather, deal with loose dirt and moisture promptly rather than leaving it sitting on the leather.
How to look after leather shoes between cleans
A little regular care can make the bigger cleans easier.
- Remove dirt before it builds up. Give your shoes a gentle brush or wipe when you notice dust, dried mud or surface dirt.
- Let wet shoes dry naturally. Keep them away from direct heat and give them enough time to dry properly before wearing them again.
- Use shoe trees where appropriate. They can help shoes retain their shape while they're being stored.
- Condition when needed. A suitable leather conditioner can help care for smooth leather, but follow the instructions for both the shoe and product.
- Protect them from the elements. If you're using a protector or waterproofing product, make sure it's suitable for the leather you're treating.
- Store them somewhere dry and ventilated. Keeping leather shoes away from excessive moisture, heat and direct sunlight will help protect them between wears.
Keep your leather shoes looking their best
Leather shoes don't need to stay tucked away for fear of getting them dirty. Deal with dirt before it builds up, clean them gently when they need it and use care products suited to the type of leather you're working with.
A little maintenance goes a long way.
Looking for your next pair? Explore our women's leather shoes and men's leather shoes to find comfortable styles made for everyday wear.
